Waterproofing Boot Spray

Waterproofing spray bonds to the surface it lands on. If that surface is a film of dried mud, you have waterproofed the mud, and it will flake off within a week taking the protection with it.

The routine that actually works:

1. Brush off dry dirt. Let mud dry first rather than washing it off wet — wet mud grinds into the grain.
2. Clean with Leather Cleaner foam on a dry sponge, spread evenly, leave to dry.
3. Once completely dry, apply the protector spray from 10–15cm until the surface is slightly damp.
4. Work it in with a soft brush, wipe off any excess with a dry cloth.
5. Leave 24 hours before wearing. The Carbon sprays want 12 hours.

On brand new boots, spray twice before the first wear. That first treatment is worth more than any later one.

Suede and nubuck have a raised nap, and that nap is what gives them their look. Anything that flattens or darkens it — wax, dubbin, polish, oil — permanently changes the finish. Never use those on suede.

What you want instead is a spray that sits in the fibres without filling them. The Collonil Nubuck & Velour range is made for exactly this, and because it is colour-matched it puts back the depth that a season of wear takes out. Choose Neutral if you are unsure or if your boot is a colour we do not stock.

Our own Leather Protector is also safe on suede and nubuck, and is the better choice if you want one product for a mixed collection of boots.

After spraying, always brush the nap back up once dry.

This catches people out, so it is worth being clear. The 200ml Collonil Nubuck & Velour sprays are pressurised aerosols. Air transport rules for hazardous substances and pressurised containers mean we cannot send them outside the UK mainland. Orders placed from outside the mainland will be refunded.

The alternatives are the pump sprays: Carbon Pure and Carbon Protector, both 100ml and both aerosol free, and our own Leather Protector, which is propellant free. All three ship normally.

There is a simple test. Flick a few drops of water onto the toe. If they bead and sit on the surface, the protection is still working. If they darken the leather and soak in, it is time.

As a rough guide: boots worn daily on a yard want reproofing weekly to fortnightly, boots worn a few times a week every two to three weeks, and occasional-wear boots every couple of months. Suede needs it more often than smooth leather because there is no wax layer helping.

Reproof at the start of autumn regardless. Going into a wet winter on last spring's treatment is where most water damage happens.

No, and we would rather say so plainly. A spray makes the leather water-repellent — rain and wet grass bead off instead of soaking in. It does not seal the seams, the zip or the stitching, which is where water actually gets into a boot.

True waterproofing comes from a membrane bonded inside the boot. If you need to stand in water, buy a boot from our waterproof range rather than trying to spray your way there.

Yes. The membrane keeps your foot dry, but it sits inside the boot — the leather outside it will still soak up water. A saturated upper is heavy, cold, slow to dry and ages badly.

Spraying the outside keeps the leather dry and light, and does not affect the membrane's breathability at all.

On smooth and waxed leather, yes — our Luxury Dubbin conditions and waterproofs at the same time, and on a waxed country boot it is arguably the better product because it feeds the leather as well.

Never on suede or nubuck. Dubbin flattens the nap and darkens the colour permanently. For those, a spray is the only safe option.

The Bareback Leather Protector. It is safe on leather, nubuck, suede, waxed leather and textiles, so one bottle covers everything in the boot room, and it is free from PFOA, PFOS and propellants.

Add a colour-matched Nubuck & Velour only if you have a specific suede boot that has faded and you want the colour lifted as well as protected.

The clear and neutral sprays dry invisible and are designed to keep the natural look and feel of the leather. On very pale suede you may see a slight initial darkening that settles as it dries.

The coloured Nubuck & Velour sprays are meant to add colour — that is the point of them — so match the shade to your boot, or take Neutral if you are unsure. Always test on a small area at the back of the heel first.